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Toast: The Story of a Boy's Hunger
Nigel Slater
This Sunday Times Bestseller is the memoir of Britain’s best loved food writer, Nigel Slater.TOAST is Nigel Slater’s truly extraordinary story of a childhood remembered through food. Whether relating his mother’s ritual burning of the toast, his father’s dreaded Boxing Day stew or such culinary highlights of the day as Arctic Roll and Grilled Grapefruit (then considered something of a status symbol in Wolverhampton) this remarkable memoir vividly recreates daily life in sixties surburban England.His mother was a chops-and-peas sort of cook, exasperated by the highs and lows of a temperamental AGA, a finicky little son and the asthma that was to prove fatal. His father was a honey-and-crumpets man who could occasionally go off �crack’ like a gun. When Nigel’s widowed father takes on a housekeeper with social aspirations and a talent in the kitchen, the following years become a heartbreaking cooking contest for his father’s affections. But as he slowly loses the battle, Nigel finds a new outlet for his culinary talents, and we witness the birth of what was to become a lifelong passion for food.Nigel’s likes and dislikes, aversions and sweet-toothed weaknesses form a fascinating and amusing backdrop to this incredibly moving and deliciously evocative memoir of childhood, adolescence and sexual awakening.
Toast
The story of a boy’s hunger
Nigel Slater
Copyright (#ulink_430f43d7-b59b-5619-a1f1-ca659ecadeb3)
Fourth Estate
An imprint of HarperCollinsPublishers
1 London Bridge Street
London SE1 9GF
First published in Great Britain by Fourth Estate in 2003
This edition published by Fourth Estate 2010
Copyright В© Nigel Slater 2003
Nigel Slater asserts the moral right to be identified as the author of this work
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. By payment of the required fees, you have been granted the non-exclusive, non-transferable right to access and read the text of this e-book on-screen. No part of this text may be reproduced, transmitted, down-loaded, decompiled, reverse engineered, or stored in or introduced into any information storage and retrieval system, in any form or by any means, whether electronic or mechanical, now known or hereinafter invented, without the express written permission of HarperCollins.
Source ISBN: 9781841154718
Ebook Edition В© AUGUST 2010 ISBN: 9780007386871
Version: 2019-04-19
Praise (#ulink_563573b0-ad91-5871-b71b-265270a89478)
THE SUNDAY TIMES BESTSELLER
�An ingenious and touching treat’
Times Literary Supplement Books of the Year
�Toast follows a recipe – boyhood blues without bitterness – that looks simple yet is actually hard to pull off. Slater manages it’
Guardian
�Delightful…singular and original’
Evening Standard
�The genius of his food writing comes from an obvious belief that food and happiness share the same organ in the brain’
LYNNE TRUSS, Sunday Times
�A banquet of unlikely delectations…England’s answer to Anthony Bourdain’s Kitchen Confidential’
Daily Telegraph
�Proves he can write mouth-wateringly about families and life too: I gobbled it up’
Daily Telegraph Books of the Year
Dedication (#ulink_bff291d6-2c2b-55f8-b341-18a427f0e4cf)
For Digger, Magrath and Poppywith love
In memory of Elvie 1902–2002
Contents
Title Page (#u7323c385-06e2-58e5-aeb3-2574a8013b9e)
Copyright (#udc8151ef-5be2-5622-8baf-d197a4edb52a)
Praise (#u4dc4322a-647e-5a9e-8548-6de99684647e)
Dedication
Toast 1 (#u6cbc8da9-a807-58bd-a64c-12cca1e433c5)
Christmas Cake (#uc9589127-5136-5bf6-9e6a-8ace4d9a067b)
Bread-and-Butter Pudding (#u012e0050-2857-54b5-b9b2-a6aa35f3e9fa)
Sherry Trifle (#u16e64fd0-7572-5212-a8ce-505194a437a7)
The Cookbook (#uf6fd2f4e-bfb9-5179-806d-34b91358a7ab)
The Lunch Box (#ueb30f2cc-5f09-55b1-9ef8-35e591fc9b3d)
Jam Tarts (#uad664c52-b141-54d5-9a5f-0c031f71d1e5)
Spaghetti Bolognese (#uf8c7a3a9-5b7e-5812-a5b6-fef96ba4ee28)
Arctic Roll (#uccd99298-3fcc-54c3-9fe0-56b010dda2f9)
Pancakes (#u4370854c-4e91-5b26-a6f5-d0a56537752f)
Flapjack (#u553a2697-27d5-5ab6-bc95-33812fdaaaba)
Percy Salt (#udf66a987-a6f0-5ba9-b6ac-aeadff5604d2)
Sweets, Ices, Rock and Politics (#u41dcfe8a-3f2c-51c4-83a7-328a99521399)
Rice Pudding (#ud6a86000-234d-5712-9ac0-c1bbbfe2e747)
Butterscotch Flavour Angel Delight (#u0e574c44-44fe-5399-b8d8-cee4bada3d61)
Mashed Potato (#u6e5c987a-bd6b-5629-b5e9-9612a191a9d6)
Tinned Ham (#u6a1f2f31-413d-5ef5-b8d2-4a5ea972d27b)
Space Dust (#ud20721c1-1e43-56ca-9a6e-cae88262d8ff)
Bombay Duck (#u05c5cdc8-1a21-51e4-89b1-f61ce355ae86)
Blackcurrant Pie (#uacbea117-2d3b-55ed-afd0-0e497fc43586)
Grilled Grapefruit (#u1e341892-699d-54df-9a11-d2fdb04589d1)
Cheese and Pineapple (#u134aedd0-c82e-5482-a3ad-94a1b86192cb)
Apples (#u7fb2961b-83a0-581e-ba35-04872f5f0a3a)
Cream Soda (#u0cf0fc50-4c2a-5721-9ed0-ad33e5ee19ad)
Setlers (#ue397b6eb-57a5-5e1c-be08-289a41625e05)
Sunday Roast (#u6f18ca8b-5f6d-5c98-9d22-16af9a01ff34)
Heinz Sponge Pudding (#uec0d34f4-a829-51ae-8eb0-d9e4f17165ce)
Crisps, Ketchup and a Few Other Unmentionables (#u62ca9f2d-1cf0-5643-ae7b-eb7f2a0f4ff9)
Senior Service (#uc455c33e-77a0-5672-b56e-a22302f6d388)
Jelly 1 (#u1e65b930-336a-5e8c-9b46-3cba72a32393)
Jelly 2 (#ubfb0a94a-b581-5b23-9e8d-e33ea6ef8c77)
Lemon Drops (#u950e1ada-662f-56b2-860d-c4cf7b38a777)
Milk (#u6602ed8c-dbee-55cb-81bb-a61050378603)
Peas (#ub64e48ce-2af3-5c78-8f8e-dc38aab0a22f)
Ice Cream (#u2c523924-5758-530e-bd67-1243c8c78627)
Cold Lamb and Gravy Skin (#u6e388e1a-0289-5298-aef1-9af5820f77a5)
Apple Crumble (#u476464e7-8f4c-54d3-87d1-572c2688a513)
Sherbet Fountains (#u5c65506b-d2f6-5621-b3bc-41ac87f0b927)
Radishes (#u7b74da90-8914-57d7-8638-1ab2f38bdc51)
Tinned Fruit (#u042bd3cd-23cb-5517-8eb7-223cf54d8595)
Lamb Chop (#u89ec1e5c-62b0-5fdc-bf48-6aee1bbf2cae)
Tapioca (#u176db864-e570-5381-a009-8c9c00d0062c)
Treacle Tart (#u1b31e3c4-59d9-5c5e-9d56-3c462097675c)
Crumpets (#u5ddafc26-9e89-544f-98f9-fcfd16ee4d03)
Bubblegum (#u438617aa-8df1-509d-be90-992896045e5b)
Porridge (#u117725b5-ef3f-5379-be19-f6d75b97a05a)
The Day the Gardener Came (#u46967050-8092-5746-b0aa-58f5f3f4e8ec)
Hot Chocolate 1 (#u503c1164-5034-52e9-8b82-36241f8b11fc)
Hot Chocolate 2 (#ucb637b13-b3d7-5bdb-8552-fce2bcbfa346)
Milk Skin (#u8451b96d-a828-5c6c-832a-a16afcfed5e8)
Jammie Dodgers (#u39c95cbd-95e8-54d2-a417-5d2194cbb366)
Peach Flan (#udfa91880-2c03-578d-ae27-61d6970ee24c)
Mince Pies 1 (#u75665b18-70b4-5630-aa1d-9cba29de2f16)
Mince Pies 2 (#u645f169c-2992-5717-9332-8758ac6692b9)
The Night Just Before Christmas (#u758c63c9-e01b-5532-8f11-61176e44d592)
Marshmallows (#uaecfbf3c-3015-5c22-8fd3-34c4546278dc)
Fried Eggs (#ue4d32b67-a9cf-5ec6-9c66-388691a7ad9d)
Cheese on Toast (#u2e0e51e4-b348-5464-9096-98b825e1c629)
Cheese-and-Onion Crisps (#u89f92a13-3573-535f-82cb-ec23d0611600)
Fray Bentos Steak & Kidney Pie (#ue7957d7a-4d75-5fd8-b2d5-c18d009d8901)
Smoked Haddock (#u0e013b18-2d78-55bd-bd67-a764657e0749)
Birthday Cake (#u516715e2-325a-52ef-95ab-592a3dc1e440)
Bed (#u388811e8-59ac-5fba-8abf-e15cd347c09a)
Fairy Drops (#u6ea489c6-043e-5e4e-b43d-e1b61cb56e33)
Tinned Raspberries (#u25d30fce-14a4-58e1-bec7-28bcfcb308a8)
Scrambled Egg (#ud6a26e4f-ef65-5e0a-88c7-cff81c37527d)
American Hard Gums (#ub99ed430-32c3-5788-ab24-1a56b97fa9bd)
Spinach (#ue56f301a-fcd1-581b-b85b-574a8659f9ac)
Smoke (#ua4b305e0-1fba-5bc9-9798-7e31e689da70)
Players No. 6 (Tipped) (#u294fe9ca-9180-5f7c-abbd-83a92d324c6a)
Tinned Beans and Sausage (#ud8d700af-cc89-5725-9107-0c0fbf17149f)
Banana Custard (#ucba589ea-4116-58b6-9e70-1007d81e3de9)
Strawberries and Cream (#u224f1042-f951-5503-a014-0c96beb6c47c)
The Dead Dog (#u0c103636-0c39-53a0-8453-d06b6c772aa9)
Bourbon Biscuits (#uf468983f-798f-5096-81e0-7e387f7840bf)
Garibaldis (#uf1cf6619-502d-5e71-85c1-5d4021caa36a)
The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe (#uacc01519-57c9-5aa0-9aa9-d997ba1451e0)
Salade TiГЁde (#u86404013-50a3-549b-84b5-9c1e8c696c88)
The Day She Darned Dad’s Socks (#ufd48565e-a8c7-5b1a-a49f-f0e032ffb19b)
Bluebird Milk Chocolate Toffees (#ua4a03912-745b-51d6-87fe-39a18e877f87)
Victoria Sandwich (#u28998743-3530-50ff-8597-cbef2ebfde81)
Ham (#uf7cb0d8c-08cf-5e7b-9786-99471e3477f1)
Boiled Ham and Parsley Sauce (#u611d3770-d7e3-549b-aea6-a96a5c8cec89)
Green Beans (#u3adf73af-e055-5fe2-9638-dcaeb2057bd2)
�Go and Play’ (#ued2761da-594e-5784-9007-aa5320af92b8)
Lemon Meringue Pie (#uf760617f-ff52-5329-b6d2-ea4c75486dbb)
Salad Cream, Mushroom Ketchup and Other Delights (#u7a5ba707-7918-5377-8fe8-751086954cc6)
Coffee and Walnut Cake (#udfedd379-60ea-5e68-8b3e-1102487a7588)
Candyfloss (#u23798fbb-b018-567e-9e71-397c44441f38)
The Man in the Woods (#ub3eb7c4f-e829-5318-93cf-ca22c04c2b1b)
Walnut Whip 1 (#uab283f10-029d-522e-b4ae-2c7c2e6d0933)
The Hostess Trolley (#u72650854-0458-538c-aead-d6344b134aa7)
Walnut Whip 2 (#u890eff12-9a09-52bd-98ef-85475bbdd78a)
Happy Families (#udd4b9951-d4d0-58d3-8d39-7715b39dfed2)
Rabbit (#u406827e3-b19b-5766-b5db-a5276b243b28)
Damson Jam (#u05b9a091-22df-5f44-8c3f-bd0206705d1d)
Tears (#u60a6c551-79cd-5890-ace4-b3986627ca54)
Toast 2 (#u525df95f-74c8-542b-b93c-02aabb5cb9de)
The Wedding Cake (#u7e469749-c685-595f-b24c-2e7d76b2c17c)
Duckling à l’orange (#u6579c880-a379-593a-9e74-06a97bec60bc)
Fillet and Rump (#ua826a942-5b95-516c-b41d-606b5004fd75)
Prawn Cocktail (#u707d6d17-83d4-55ab-af50-3b529ae6b3fc)
Peach Melba (#u3e5b276a-3926-51f3-aef6-a3d78f8efcd6)
Pickled Walnuts (#u3d698647-9ca3-54b1-a336-af599b735728)
Sweeties (#u648557e2-0e55-590b-a3d9-c91fbe5e21b3)
The Two of Us (#u46476622-4098-54e4-822b-d38155cc0e8e)
Another Funeral (#u8b3f384b-316f-554d-8ca9-8e3bda3d1bef)
Apple Pie and a Wake-up Call (#u07b341db-4aa5-535e-88bb-9cf973311d65)
A Sniff of Basil (#u77f97046-c75b-562f-bff8-c5745f2bbefd)
Irish Stew (#u0558f989-c400-5703-b4e2-0c831b0f5881)
Black Forest GГўteau (#u49ff09f0-43c9-5977-8a50-c1066cfe4414)
Seafood Cocktail (#udedf81cc-dc01-54a8-a1ad-57612b32bb8c)
La Steak Diane (#uf719785d-1aee-5302-8187-64143a4506e4)
Cold Roast Beef (#u1fd1a780-4426-532b-b48a-d7de8450b03d)
The Wimpy Bar (#u87bc2c24-63fe-59e7-bddb-bff387d55d1d)
Pommes Dauphinoise (#u99a722d2-b959-5637-8a4a-8b7205f5bd09)
The Bistro (#u0daa0de9-1509-5fcc-a157-a1047f31d308)
Toast 3 (#ua5ec3078-3864-5351-a607-30e89feea32a)
Acknowledgement (#ue96abb01-6126-51e4-9138-5b49fecb2b75)
About the Author (#u51becdf1-e18d-5189-bce3-cd7dff17cc44)
Also by Nigel Slater (#u5cda3153-a8e2-559d-a2f4-870246799804)
About the Publisher (#u666b7979-451a-5997-bc14-a056f3efa8f7)
Toast 1 (#ulink_1ff447e4-0fa5-5815-b9f6-c1bc0d92eb7d)
My mother is scraping a piece of burned toast out of the kitchen window, a crease of annoyance across her forehead. This is not an occasional occurrence, a once-in-a-while hiccup in a busy mother’s day. My mother burns the toast as surely as the sun rises each morning. In fact, I doubt if she has ever made a round of toast in her life that failed to fill the kitchen with plumes of throat-catching smoke. I am nine now and have never seen butter without black bits in it.
It is impossible not to love someone who makes toast for you. People’s failings, even major ones such as when they make you wear short trousers to school, fall into insignificance as your teeth break through the rough, toasted crust and sink into the doughy cushion of white bread underneath. Once the warm, salty butter has hit your tongue, you are smitten. Putty in their hands.
Christmas Cake (#ulink_e70de9ad-fd50-53e4-b379-cb725022ae24)
Mum never was much of a cook. Meals arrived on the table as much by happy accident as by domestic science. She was a chops-and-peas sort of a cook, occasionally going so far as to make a rice pudding, exasperated by the highs and lows of a temperamental cream-and-black Aga and a finicky little son. She found it all a bit of an ordeal, and wished she could have left the cooking, like the washing, ironing and dusting, to Mrs P., her �woman what does’.
Once a year there were Christmas puddings and cakes to be made. They were made with neither love nor joy. They simply had to be done. �I suppose I had better DO THE CAKE,’ she would sigh. The food mixer – she was not the sort of woman to use her hands – was an ancient, heavy Kenwood that lived in a deep, secret hole in the kitchen work surface. My father had, in a rare moment of do-it-yourselfery, fitted a heavy industrial spring under the mixer so that when you lifted the lid to the cupboard the mixer slowly rose like a corpse from a coffin. All of which was slightly too much for my mother, my father’s quaint Heath Robinson craftsmanship taking her by surprise every year, the huge mixer bouncing up like a jack-in-the-box and making her clap her hands to her chest. �Oh heck!’ she would gasp. It was the nearest my mother ever got to swearing.
She never quite got the hang of the mixer. I can picture her now, desperately trying to harness her wayward Kenwood, bits of cake mixture flying out of the bowl like something from an I Love Lucy sketch. The cake recipe was written in green biro on a piece of blue Basildon Bond and was kept, crisply folded into four, in the spineless AgaCookbook that lived for the rest of the year in the bowl of the mixer. The awkward, though ingenious, mixer cupboard was impossible to clean properly, and in among the layers of flour and icing sugar lived tiny black flour weevils. I was the only one who could see them darting around. None of which, I suppose, mattered if you were making Christmas pudding, with its gritty currants and hours of boiling. But this was cake.
Cooks know to butter and line the cake tins before they start the creaming and beating. My mother would remember just before she put the final spoonful of brandy into the cake mixture, then take half an hour to find them. They always turned up in a drawer, rusty and full of fluff. Then there was the annual scrabble to find the brown paper, the scissors, the string. However much she hated making the cake we both loved the sound of the raw cake mixture falling into the tin. �Shhh, listen to the cake mixture,’ she would say, and the two of us would listen to the slow plop of the dollops of fruit and butter and sugar falling into the paper-lined cake tin. The kitchen would be warmer than usual and my mother would have that I’ve-just-baked-a-cake glow. �Oh, put the gram on, will you, dear? Put some carols on,’ she would say as she put the cake in the top oven of the Aga. Carols or not, it always sank in the middle. The embarrassing hollow, sometimes as deep as your fist, having to be filled in with marzipan.
Forget scented candles and freshly brewed coffee. Every home should smell of baking Christmas cake. That, and warm freshly ironed tea towels hanging on the rail in front of the Aga. It was a pity we had Auntie Fanny living with us. Her incontinence could take the edge off the smell of a chicken curry, let alone a baking cake. No matter how many mince pies were being made, or pine logs burning in the grate, or how many orange-and-clove pomanders my mother had made, there was always the faintest whiff of Auntie Fanny.
Warm sweet fruit, a cake in the oven, woodsmoke, warm ironing, hot retriever curled up by the Aga, mince pies, Mum’s 4711. Every child’s Christmas memories should smell like that. Mine did. It is a pity that there was always a passing breeze of ammonia.
Cake holds a family together. I really believed it did. My father was a different man when there was cake in the house. Warm. The sort of man I wanted to hug rather than shy away from. If he had a plate of cake in his hand I knew it would be all right to climb up on to his lap. There was something about the way my mother put a cake on the table that made me feel that all was well. Safe. Secure. Unshakeable. Even when she got to the point where she carried her Ventolin inhaler in her left hand all the time. Unshakeable. Even when she and my father used to go for long walks, walking ahead of me and talking in hushed tones and he would come back with tears in his eyes.
When I was eight my mother’s annual attempt at icing the family Christmas cake was handed over to me. �I’ve had enough of this lark, dear, you’re old enough now.’ She had started to sit down a lot. I made only marginally less of a mess than she did, but at least I didn’t cover the table, the floor, the dog with icing sugar. To be honest, it was a relief to get it out of her hands. I followed the Slater house style of snowy peaks brought up with the flat of a knife and a red ribbon. Even then I wasn’t one to rock the boat. The idea behind the wave effect of her icing was simply to hide the fact that her attempt at covering the cake in marzipan resembled nothing more than an unmade bed. Folds and lumps, creases and tears. A few patches stuck on with a bit of apricot jam.
I knew I could have probably have flat-iced a cake to perfection, but to have done so would have hurt her feelings. So waves it was. There was also a chipped Father Christmas, complete with a jagged lump of last year’s marzipan round his feet, and the dusty bristle tree with its snowy tips of icing. I drew the line at the fluffy yellow Easter chick.
Baking a cake for your family to share, the stirring of cherries, currants, raisins, peel and brandy, brown sugar, butter, eggs and flour, for me the ultimate symbol of a mother’s love for her husband and kids, was reduced to something that �simply has to be done’. Like cleaning the loo or polishing the shoes. My mother knew nothing of putting glycerine in with the sugar to keep the icing soft, so her rock-hard cake was always the butt of jokes for the entire Christmas. My father once set about it with a hammer and chisel from the shed. So the sad, yellowing cake sat round until about the end of February, the dog giving it the occasional lick as he passed, until it was thrown, much to everyone’s relief, on to the lawn for the birds.
Bread-and-Butter Pudding (#ulink_490e5e8f-9304-5d80-81bd-9c9523931c63)
My mother is buttering bread for England. The vigour with which she slathers soft yellow fat on to thinly sliced white pap is as near as she gets to the pleasure that is cooking for someone you love. Right now she has the bread knife in her hand and nothing can stop her. She always buys unwrapped, unsliced bread, a pale sandwich loaf without much of a crust, and slices it by hand.
My mother’s way of slicing and buttering has both an ease and an awkwardness about it. She has softened the butter on the back of the Aga so that it forms a smooth wave as the butter knife is drawn across it. She spreads the butter on to the cut side of the loaf, then picks up the bread knife and takes off the buttered slice. She puts down the bread knife, picks up the butter knife and again butters the freshly cut side of the loaf. She carries on like this till she has used three-quarters of the loaf. The rest she will use in the morning, for toast.
The strange thing is that none of us really eats much bread and butter. It’s like some ritual of good housekeeping that my mother has to go through. As if her grandmother’s dying words had been �always make sure they have enough bread and butter on the table’. No one ever sees what she does with all the slices we don’t eat.
I mention all the leftover bread and butter to Mrs Butler, a kind, gentle woman whose daughter is in my class at school and whose back garden has a pond with newts and goldfish, crowns of rhubarb and rows of potatoes. A house that smells of apple crumble. I visit her daughter Madeleine at lunchtime and we often walk back to school together. Mrs Butler lets me wait while Madeleine finishes her lunch.
�Well, your mum could make bread-and-butter pudding, apple charlotte, eggy bread, or bread pudding,’ suggests Mrs Butler, �or she could turn them into toasted cheese sandwiches.’
I love bread-and-butter pudding. I love its layers of sweet, quivering custard, juicy raisins, and puffed, golden crust. I love the way it sings quietly in the oven; the way it wobbles on the spoon.
You can’t smell a hug. You can’t hear a cuddle. But if you could, I reckon it would smell and sound of warm bread-and-butter pudding.
Sherry Trifle (#ulink_9d1dea13-57db-56b7-ab85-196a7bdd3ebd)
My father wore old, rust-and-chocolate checked shirts and smelled of sweet briar tobacco and potting compost. A warm and twinkly-eyed man, the sort who would let his son snuggle up with him in an armchair and fall asleep in the folds of his shirt. �You’ll have to get off now, my leg’s gone to sleep,’ he would grumble, and turf me off on to the rug. He would pull silly faces at every opportunity, especially when there was a camera or other children around. Sometimes they would make me giggle, but other times, like when he pulled his monkey face, they scared me so much I used to get butterflies in my stomach.
His clothes were old and soft, which made me want to snuggle up to him even more. He hated wearing new. My father always wore old, heavy brogues and would don a tie even in his greenhouse. He read the Telegraph and Reader’s Digest. A crumpets-and-honey sort of a man with a tight little moustache. God, he had a temper though. Sometimes he would go off, �crack’, like a shotgun. Like when he once caught me going through my mother’s handbag, looking for barley sugars, or when my mother made a batch of twelve fairy cakes and I ate six in one go.
My father never went to church, but said his prayers nightly kneeling by his bed, his head resting in his hands. He rarely cursed, apart from calling people �silly buggers’. I remember he had a series of crushes on singers. First, it was Kathy Kirby, although he once said she was a �bit ritzy’, and then Petula Clark. Sometimes he would buy their records and play them on Sundays after I had listened to my one and only record – a scratched forty-five of Tommy Steele singing �Little White Bull’. The old man was inordinately fond of his collection of female vocals. You should have seen the tears the day Alma Cogan died.
The greenhouse was my father’s sanctuary. I was never sure whether it smelled of him or he smelled of it. In winter, before he went to bed, he would go out and light the old paraffin stove that kept his precious begonias and tomato plants alive. I remember the dark night the stove blew out and the frost got his begonias. He would spend hours down there. I once caught him in the greenhouse with his dick in his hand. He said he was just �going for a pee. It’s good for the plants.’ It was different, bigger than it looked in the bath and he seemed to be having a bit of a struggle getting it back into his trousers.
He had a bit of a thing about sherry trifle. That and his dreaded leftover turkey stew were the only two recipes he ever made. The turkey stew, a Boxing Day trauma for everyone concerned, varied from year to year, but the trifle had rules. He used ready-made Swiss rolls. The sort that come so tightly wrapped in cellophane you can never get them out without denting the sponge. They had to be filled with raspberry jam, never apricot because you couldn’t see the swirl of jam through the glass bowl the way you could with raspberry. There was much giggling over the sherry bottle. What is it about men and booze? They only cook twice a year but it always involves a bottle of something. Next, a tin of peaches with a little of their syrup. He was meticulous about soaking the sponge roll. First the sherry, then the syrup from the peaches tin. Then the jelly. To purists the idea of jelly in trifle is anathema. But to my father it was essential. If my father’s trifle was human it would be a clown. One of those with striped pants and a red nose. He would make bright yellow custard, Bird’s from a tin. This he smoothed over the jelly, taking an almost absurd amount of care not to let the custard run between the Swiss roll slices and the glass. A matter of honour no doubt.
Once it was cold, the custard was covered with whipped cream, glacГ© cherries and whole, blanched almonds. Never silver balls, which he thought common, or chocolate vermicelli, which he thought made it sickly. Just big fat almonds. He never toasted them, even though it would have made them taste better. In later years my stepmother was to suggest a sprinkling of multicoloured hundreds and thousands. She might as well have suggested changing his daily paper to the Mirror.
The entire Christmas stood or fell according to the noise the trifle made when the first massive, embossed spoon was lifted out. The resulting noise, a sort of squelch-fart, was like a message from God. A silent trifle was a bad omen. The louder the trifle parped, the better Christmas would be. Strangely, Dad’s sister felt the same way about jelly – making it stronger than usual just so it would make a noise that, even at her hundredth birthday tea, would make the old bird giggle.
You wouldn’t think a man who smoked sweet, scented tobacco, grew pink begonias and made softly-softly trifle could be scary. His tempers, his rages, his scoldings scared my mother, my brothers, the gardener, even the sweet milkman who occasionally got the order wrong. Once, when I had been caught not brushing my teeth before going to bed, his glare was so full of fire, his face so red and bloated, his hand raised so high that I pissed in my pyjamas, right there on the landing outside my bedroom. For all his soft shirts and cuddles and trifles I was absolutely terrified of him.
The Cookbook (#ulink_677fce6c-578e-50b3-b653-17b751589e52)
The bookcase doubled as a drinks cabinet. Or perhaps that should be the other way around. Three glass decanters with silver labels hanging around their necks boasted Brandy, Whisky and Port, though I had never known anything in them, not even at Christmas. Dad’s whisky came from a bottle, Dimple Haig, that he kept in a hidden cupboard at the back of the bookcase where he also kept his Canada Dry and a jar of maraschino cherries for when we all had snowballs at Christmas. The front of the drinks cabinet housed his entire collection of books.
The family’s somewhat diminutive library had leatherette binding and bore Reader’s Digest or The Folio Society on their spines. Most were in mint condition, and invariably �condensed’ or �abridged’. Six or so of the books were kept in the cupboard at the back, with the Dimple Haig and a bottle of advocaat; a collection of stories by Edgar Allan Poe, a dog-eared Raymond Chandler, a Philip Roth and a neat pile of National Geographics. There was also a copy of Marguerite Patten’s All Colour Cookbook.
It was a tight fit in between the wall and the back of the bookcase. Dad just opened the door and leaned in to get his whisky; it was more difficult for me to get round there, to wriggle into a position where I could squat in secret and turn the pages of the hidden books. I don’t know how Marguerite Patten would feel knowing that she was kept in the same cupboard as Portnoy’s Complaint, or that I would flip excitedly from one to the other. I hope my father never sells them. �For sale, one copy each of Marguerite Patten’s All Colour Cookery and Philip Roth’s Portnoy’s Complaint, first edition, d/w, slightly stained.’
�I don’t know what you want to look at that for,’ said Mum once, coming home early and catching me gazing at a photograph of Gammon Steaks with Pineapple and Cherries. �It’s all very fancy, I can’t imagine who cooks like that.’ There was duck à l’orange and steak-and-kidney pudding, fish pie, beef Wellington and rock cakes, fruit flan and crème caramel. There was page after page of glorious photographs of stuffed eggs, sole with grapes and a crown roast of lamb with peas and baby carrots around the edge, parsley sprigs, radish roses, cucumber curls. Day after day I would squeeze round and pore over the recipes fantasising over Marguerite’s devilled kidneys and Spanish chicken, her prawn cocktail and sausage rolls. Just as I would spend quite a while fantasising over Portnoy’s way with liver.
The Lunch Box (#ulink_72587dcc-306f-5e01-ad50-95a628f4d65c)
Josh, Mum and Dad’s new gardener, was cool. He had a black motorbike, a Triumph something or other, and used to bring his lunch neatly packed in a tin box. He licked his cigarette papers, tiny things with barely a pinch of tobacco in them, and rolled them into short flat cigarettes while he sat on his bike. Everyone liked Josh, Mum thought he was �such a good-looking young man, as bright as a button’, and Dad seemed more happy with him than he had been with the older guys who used to leave almost as soon as they had started. One was fired just because the frost got at Dad’s dahlias.
Unlike the other gardeners, Josh used to let me turn the compost with the long-handled, two-pronged fork that no one else let me touch and empty the mower box on to the heap. He let me weed the front of the borders where we had planted daisy-faced mesembryanthemums that only came out in the sun and balls of alyssum and drifts of pink and white candytuft. I watched the way he tied the clematis up when the string broke once in the wind, and when he used to pee on the compost. �Better not tell your dad I do that, it’s my secret way of getting the compost to work,’ he would say, turning as he shook himself and did up his buttons.
My father smiled, beamed almost, when I called plants by their proper names. Antirrhinum instead of snapdragon and Muscari instead of grape hyacinth. He gave a tired but amused little snuffle when I once corrected him about the name of a rose that he had called Pleasure when I knew it was Peace. Josh would take me round the borders, getting me to name as many plants as I could and would tease me when I confused azaleas and rhododendrons. Sometimes he would hoist me up on to his bare shoulders and charge around the garden making airplane noises and pretending to crash into the trees. We played football once, but my saves were so bad that the ball, an orange one belonging to my brothers, kept crashing into the marguerites and knocking them flat.
I liked the way Josh would let me sit and talk to him while he took a strip-wash in the outside toilet and changed back into his motorbike leathers. The way he would let me choose a biscuit – a Bourbon, a ginger nut, even a caramel wafer – from his lunch box and the way he never turned his back on me when he was drying himself with his frayed green-and-white-striped towel.
Jam Tarts (#ulink_58fe5a7d-8f56-568f-b071-7f567466431e)
A great deal was made of my being tucked in at night. �I’ll come up and tuck you in’ was as near as my mother ever got to playing with me. Tucking me in was her substitute for playing ball, going to the park to play on the slide, being there on sports day, playing hide-and-seek, baking cakes, giving me chocolate kisses, ice cream, toffee apples, making masks and carving Halloween pumpkins. �I’ll come up and tuck you in’ was fine. It’s when she forgot that it wasn’t.
Every few weeks my mother and I would make jam tarts. She had small hands with long, delicate fingers. Gentle, like her name, Kathleen, and that of her siblings, Marjorie and Geoffrey. They say there was some Irish blood somewhere, but like my mother’s asthma no one ever spoke of it.
She would weigh the flour, the butter, the bit of lard that made the pastry so crumbly, and let me rub them all together with my fingertips in the big cream mixing bowl. She poured in cold water from a glass and I brought the dough together into a ball. Her hands started work with the rolling pin, then, once the ball of pastry was flat, I would take over, pushing the pastry out into a great thin sheet. We took the steel cookie cutters, rusty, dusty, and cut out rings of pastry and pushed them into the shallow hollows of an even rustier patty tin.
Mother didn’t like cooking. She did this for me. When she met my father she was working as a secretary to the mayor at the town hall and had never made so much as a sandwich. My father’s first marriage had lasted only a matter of months and was never, ever discussed. (By sheer chance, an old acquaintance of my father’s asked my brother if he was from the first or second marriage. Otherwise we would never have known.) She fell pregnant with me fifteen years after my brother Adrian was born and five years after they adopted his schoolfriend John. That’s when the asthma came on. When she was expecting me.
There had to be three different jams in the tarts. Strawberry, blackcurrant and lemon curd. It wasn’t till later I learned that plum, damson and marmalade made the best fillings. I put a couple of spoonfuls of jam into each pastry case, not so much that they would boil over and stick to the tin, but enough that there was more jam than pastry. My father loved a jam tart and would put one in whole and swallow it like a snake devouring a bird’s egg. Despite training as a gunsmith, he now owned a factory where they made parts for Rover cars, a factory that smelled of oil, where the machines were black and stood in pools of oily water. �A man was killed in that one there – he got his overall caught in the roller and it pulled him straight through, flat as a pancake,’ my father told me one day as we walked through the black hangar at dusk, its iron roof dripping and the stench of rust around us.
The tarts went in the top oven of the Aga until the edges of the pastry cases turned the pale beige of a Lincoln biscuit and the jam had caramelised around the edges. As the kitchen became hotter and more airless my mother would take her inhaler from the top drawer and take long deep puffs, turning her face away as she did so. Sometimes, she would hold her hand to her chest and close her eyes for a few seconds. A few seconds in which the world seem to stop.
My mother was polite, quietly spoken, but not timid. I once heard her telling off the delivery boy from Percy Salt’s the grocer because there was something on the bill that shouldn’t have been. I never heard her raise her voice. I am not sure she could have done if she wanted to. She certainly never did to me.
One day my father came home from work, and even before he had taken off his coat he grabbed one of our jam tarts from the wire cooling rack. He couldn’t have known they had come from the oven only a minute or two before. His hands flapped, his face turned a deep raspberry red, beads of sweat formed like warts on his brow, he danced a merry dance. As he tried to swallow and his eyes filled with the sort of tears a man can only summon when he has boiling lemon curd stuck to the roof of his mouth, I am sure that I saw the faintest of smiles flicker across my mother’s face.
Spaghetti Bolognese (#ulink_742d0385-5e70-5b28-8bb6-fdfc8e180caf)
�We…are…going to have…spaghetti, no, SPAGHETTI…just try a bit of it. You don’t have to eat it if you DON’T LIKE it.’ Mum is yelling into Auntie Fanny’s �good’ ear. Quite why she thinks there is a good one and a bad one is a mystery. Everyone knows the old bat is deaf as a post in both.
Neither Fanny nor Mum has eaten spaghetti before, and come to think of it neither have I. Dad is waiting for the water to boil on the Aga. The sauce is already warm, having been poured from its tin a good half-hour ago and is sitting on the cool plate of the Aga, giving just the occasional blip-blop.
When the water finally boils my father shakes the strands of pasta out of the blue sugar paper that looks for all the world like a great long firework, and stands them in the bubbling water. They splay out like one of those fibre-optic lights we saw at the Ideal Home Exhibition on the BBC. As the water comes back to the boil he tries to push the spikes under the water. �They’ll never all go in,’ he snaps, trying to read the packet, which, even when read with bifocals, is in Italian. Some of the brittle sticks break in half and clatter over the hotplate.
�Will I like it, Daddy?’ I ask, half hoping he’ll change his mind and Mum will cook us all some chops.
�Just try it,’ he says, a somewhat exasperated tone creeping in to his voice. �Just try it.’
�I think you should put some salt in,’ chirps in Mum.
Auntie Fanny is looking down at her lap. �Do I have to have some?’ I think she is going to cry.
�I think it must be done now,’ says my father twenty minutes later. He drains the slithery lengths of spaghetti in a colander in the sink. Some are escaping through the holes and curling up in the sink like nests of worms. �Quick, get the plates, they’re getting away.’
We all sit there staring at our tumbling piles of pasta on our glass Pyrex plates. �Oh, Kathleen, I don’t think I can,’ sobs Auntie Fanny, who then picks up a long sticky strand with her fingers and pops it into her mouth from which it hangs all the way down to her lap.
�No, wait for the sauce, Fanny,’ Mother sighs, and then quite out of character, �Come on, Daddy, hurry up.’ Dad spoons the sauce, a slurry of reddy-brown mince that smells �foreign’, over the knots and twirls of pasta. Suddenly it all seems so grown-up, so sophisticated.
Mum wraps the strands round her fork, �like this, do it like this,’ then shovels it towards Fanny’s wet, pink little lips. Most of the pasta falls down Fanny’s skirt, a little of the sauce gets caught on her bottom lip. She licks it off and shudders. �It’s horrible, it’s horrible. He’s trying to poison me,’ she wails. We all know she would have said the same even if it had been the most delectable thing she had ever eaten.
Ignoring Fanny’s little tantrum, I do as Mother bids, twirling the pasta round my fork while shovelling the escaping pieces back on with my spoon. I rather like it, the feel of the softly slippery noodles, the rich sauce which is hot, salty and tastes partly of tomato, partly of Bovril. I wouldn’t mind eating this every day. Unexpectedly, my father takes out a cardboard drum of grated Parmesan cheese and passes it to me to open.
�What’s that you’ve got there?’ asks Mum.
�It’s grated cheese, Percy Salt said you have to sprinkle it over the top, it doesn’t work if you don’t.’ Now we’re talking. I peel away the piece of paper that is covering the holes and shake the white powder over my sauce. I pass it to my father who does the same. Mum declines as she usually does with anything unusual. There is no point in asking Auntie Fanny, who is by now quietly wetting her pants.
Dad shakes the last of the cheese over his pasta and suddenly everyone goes quiet. I’m looking down but I can see my father out of the corner of my right eye; he has stopped, his fork in mid-air, a short strand of spaghetti hanging loose. His eyes have gone glassy and he puts his fork back down on his plate.
�Daddy, this cheese smells like sick,’ I tell him.
�I know it does, son, don’t eat it. I think it must be off.’
We never had spaghetti bolognese or Parmesan cheese again. Or for that matter, ever even talked about it.
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